TCS CN-GP in a Life Like GP60

Recently I saw on the TCS web site that the CN-GP decoder would fit in the Life Like GP60 and as I had a couple of those to do I thought I would give it a try.  I've installed wired decoders in several of these models before but had to have the frames milled.  That type of installation was presented in the post Digitrax DZ123 in a Life Like GP60.

In that earlier post I had not mentioned removing the shell so I will cover it here.

The shell fits rather tightly on this model and the best way I have found to remove them is to pry the shell up from the tab located under the rear of the cab on each side with a jewelers screwdriver.






This installation is going to be similar to the others using the CN or CN-GP decoders. If I seem to skip over something or something is not clear I suggest also checking the other posts that use these decoders.  After getting the shell off I fully dis-assemble the mechanism.  This is necessary because the decoder wires are going to need to be connected to the motor.  When removing the motor, I always mark the top to keep the polarity correct.

The TCS web site seem to suggest that no frame modification at all was needed.  After carefully examining things I came up with the steps shown in this photo as being the minimum needed to ensure a solid installation.

A pinched wire may not show up for quite some time until the insulation breaks down and the conductor comes in contact with the frame.

It only took me a few minutes with a Dermal tool and cut off wheel. I smoothed things out with a jewelers file. The areas I worked on are pointed out by the blue arrows in this photo. The two areas near the ends can be done on either frame half. The frame needs to be free of any loose metal filings. I use a stiff brush and low pressure air to do this.

I like to remove the orange and gray wires from the decoder and connect them to the motor brush caps first.  This motor does not use a plastic saddle so it's a tight fit between the motor and the shell.  I file the groove to recess the gray wire into the motor body.

There is just a small amount of space between the motor brush caps and the frame so I wrap around the motor 1 and 1/2 times with Kapton tape with the overlap being at the top.  It's been my experience that Kapton tape sticks best to itself so that why the extra 1/2 turn.  The wires are folded under the tape then a slot is cut to allow them to come through on the top.

After re-installing the worm gear assemblies, the frame halves can be put back together using the bushings, screws, and nuts and this is what it should look like.

At this point I will apply the output of a DC throttle to the orange and gray wires and check how the motor is running before proceeding with the final steps.

Plug both decoder boards into the frame.  If needed to get a snug fit on the front board, tap lightly with a small hammer on the tabs with the board out, then plug in again. On the rear board use the solder method on the bottom of the board if needed to get a snug fit.  Connect the wires as shown and test run.

These engine don't have any kind of a hood or light shield around the inside of the cab windows and the LED's mounted on these decoders are quite bright so I ended up removing the cab and painting the inside of the windows with 2 coats of Floquil engine black.

DZ123 in a Kato GP38 or GP50

This material first appeared on my old web site in 2004.

In the late 80's Kato introduced some nice models of the GP38-2 and the GP50 that were built on very similar mechanisms.  These mechanisms were an improvement over what had been available up to that time and another stepping stone to get to what is available today.  It is possible to install a decoder in these older engines and here's how to do it.

The locomotive must be completely disassembled and the frame milled to make room for the decoder.  I sent mine to Aztec Mfg. for milling.






For this project I am using the TM3013 frame to modify a GP50.  This frame would also work for 2nd run of the GP38-2 model.  The TM3011 frame would be used for the 1st run of the GP38-2.

This installation uses the original PC light board. This photo shows the modifications I made to the board.  Cut the board just behind the rear mounting screw holes.  The remaining board should be about 1-7/8 inches long.

Remove the diode from the front end of the board.  Using the Aztec frame as a guide, file a notch to match the slot on the left side of the frame.








On this particular installation I had used the Digitrax DZ123 decoder.  Digitrax has replaced the DZ123 with the DZ125.  Other decoders that would work include the TCS M1 or Z2, The Zimo MX621, or Lenz Silver Mini.

This photo shows the decoder wired to the board and the motor brush caps installed on the orange and gray wires.  The lengths of the wires are as follows:

Red & Black = 7/8 inch
White & Gray = 1 - 7/8 inch
Orange = 2 - 3/8 inch
Yellow = 1 inch
Blue = 1/2 inch




In this example I used the original light front light bulb and connected the white wire directly.  If an LED is used then put a 480 ohm resistor between the LED and the white wire.  Do the same for the rear LED using the blue wire for the return path.

To give extra protection against any possibility of short circuits, place kapton tape on both the upper and lower parts of the frame, and on the inside of the metal cover as shown in this photo.

Run the orange wire down the left side of the engine to the lower motor brush.  The gray wire goes to the top motor brush.  They both use the notch on the left side of the engine. Install the metal cover being careful not to pinch any of the wires on the guide tab at sticks up from the frame. There will be enough room for the wires between the frame and the metal cover.

TCS AMD4 in an Atlas U23B

Happy New Year and welcome to another year of N Scale DCC decoder installs.  During the past year DCC equipped engines have become the majority in my fleet. Maybe this year I can get to 100% DCC !

Starting with the 1997 release of their GP40-2, Atlas started producing N scale engines that could use a board type DCC decoder.  The design involved having the bottom motor contact come around to the top and both the top and bottom contacts then touching pads on the bottom of the decoder board or the stock LED board.  The idea being that the frame would not need to be modified and this was a great breakthrough for N scale DCC.  This same design has been used on many models now and decoder boards to match this design are offered by all the major decoder manufacturers.

This design suffered from that connection between those contacts and the boards not being very reliable. For many years I had been wiring the connection between the motor and decoder.  More recently with the wired decoders having gotten much smaller, I have found space between the stock LED boards and the frame and would connect the wired decoder into the LED board.  I have posted several of these types of installations here on this blog including the GP40, SD35, and the SD50/60 series.

Recently I had a few U23B's to do but found it was going to be tight to put a wired decoder in the way I have been with those models mentioned above so thought I would give the board decoder another try and have updated my installation as reported here.

The decoders boards for these Atlas engines have evolved over the years and now have plated slots for those motor contact tabs to go through which will help with that connection problem.

Notice in the photo above with the boards that the stock LED board has solder on the frame contact pads.  Later we will see why this was done.

This photo shows how far I took the engine apart.  The motor and gear assemblies are left in the right side frame throughout this installation.

To insure that those motor contract tabs don't touch the frame, I cut two sections of 3/64" heat shrink to cover them.  One is 3/16" long and the other is 1/4" long.

After straightening out he motor contact tabs, the sections of heat shrink are pushed down as far as they can go.  As shown in this photo the shorter one goes to the top motor contact and the longer one to the bottom motor contact.  The tops of the heat shrink sections should be even with the top of the motor saddle.  Heat shrinking these is optional.  I normally do but suggest being very careful not to use too much heat near the motor.

Remember the solder on the frame contacts of the original LED board ?  They did that because the board fit too loosely in the frame.  The decoder may also need this treatment.  Test fit the decoder board on each side frame to determine if and how much is needed to get a snug fit..

While guiding the motor contact tabs through the slots on the decoder board, press the decoder board into the right side frame as shown in this photo.

Then replace the shoulder washers and press the left side frame on.  Carefully guide it on over the decoder board, the shoulder washers, and the motor saddle.

In this close up shot at the right side of the motor after everything is assembled the heat shrink can be seen shielding the motor contact from the frame.  The same is true on the other side.

After a successful test run of the engine mechanism, I normally solder the motor contact tabs to the decoder board.  Then re-install the shell.

Those tiny surface mount LED's are really bright and make the headlights and number boards look great.  Depending on engine paint color, the light may also glow through the shell and a coat of dark color paint on the inside of the shell may be needed.  On these dark green Western Pacific locomotives the light did not shine through the shells at all.

The principles of this installation apply to many other Atlas engines using these board type decoders.

Building a Digitrax LocoNet tester

This is going to be another one of those posts where I wander a bit from the installation of DCC decoders but  this is good stuff to know if you use a Digitrax system and it ended up being a fun and easy project.

The little device in the photo on the left is called an LT1 and has 4 green 4 LED's that when lighted after being plugged into the Loconet indicate all is well.

Because the weak links are the flat telephone type cables and the rather delicate connectors it's important to have one of these on hand to verify that the connections are sound.

The LT1 comes with the system and they can also be purchased separately and they are not expensive.  The problem is that they are very small and easily lost.  They are also a goner if they get stepped on which can easily happen at a show if left on the floor.  I have had a couple of these and so has the Ntrak club I belong to but the last couple of show setups none could be found so I decided to try to make something that was a little bigger and not so easily lost.

I found this photo on wikipedia that shows the pin outs of the phone connector and what they represent on the LocoNet cable.

After a couple of experiments this is what I came up with.

I used a surface mount RJ11 phone jack that had 6 contacts.  These are about 2 inches square and about 1 inch thick.  Still small enough to easily fit in the toolbox but large enough not to get lost so easily.

The LED's are actually LED light boards from Atlas GP7 locomotives which in I had installed TCS CN-GP decoders in.  I re-mounted the LED's so they point straight up from the board.  I also used scraps of decoder wires to make the connections inside the box so this was really a junk box project.

Here is a look inside.  The back part and the cover of this phone jack just snap together.

The LED boards were modified by re-mounting the LED so that it is pointed straight out from the board.  Also I trimmed down the size of the boards so they would fit close together in the middle of the cover and stay clear of the screws on the back part.  The yellow and black wires are the commons so they each connect to two of the LED boards on the side that does not have the resistor. The other four wires are each connected to the side of the boards that does have the resistor.  Each of the wires are then placed under the screws.




Parts List:

• (4) LED boards from Older Atlas GP7's.  Similar boards would also work
• (1) RJ11 surface mount jack - widely available for about $1.00 each

The way to use this device is to get the command system going so that a train can run.  Then plug one end of a loconet cable into the command station and the other end into this tester.  All four LED's should light up, if they don't then there's a bad connection in the cable or at one of the connectors.  Re-installing a new connector often corrects the problem so a good quality RJ11 crimper and connectors should be kept in the tool box.

When setting up the DCC system on our Ntrak layouts, I have found the the telephone cords to often be unreliable so I will test each section of cord before actually using it to connect the command station to the various panels on the layout when setting up.  This method avoids much frustration.

Lenz Silver Mini in an Atlas Classic GP35

One of the Classic releases from Atlas were the GP35's that were closely based on the mechanism made for them by Kato several years earlier.  The Atlas Classic GP30 also uses the same mechanism as the one shown here.  At first glance this would seem like a straight forward replace the frame type of installation but as I discovered there are a few extra tricks that are worth covering.

If you look at the frames for the Kato made model and the Classic models made in China, they seem identical in every way.  They both even have the same part numbers on them and copyright Atlas 1992.

There is a critical difference and it's important not to get them mixed up.  The photo on the left shows the right side frames from each model.  The size of the bushings used on the Classic version are slightly smaller and where they fit in on the frame is also slightly smaller.




A quick way to check is to test fit a bushing from a Kato made model. If it fits easily then it's a frame for a Kato made model.  If it's a tight fit or won't fit then the frame is for the Classic version.

I was quite confused about this until John from Aztec set me straight.  The Aztec part number for the milled frame for a Kato made model is TM3001 and for the Classic model it is TM3016.

Because the outside of the Kato made and Classic frames seems identical, I wondered if the shells are interchangeable.  After swapping around several shells and frames I was able to confirm that yes, they are interchangeable.  So now on to the decoder installation.

This model normally comes with bright white LED's on a PC board very similar to the one used on the Kato made model.

On some of them there is a small component added to the solder side of the board.  This was added to suppress the flickering of the LED when the engine was running in the reverse direction in DC operation and will not be needed after the decoder is installed so it should be removed on both boards.

On the front LED board only there is a chance that the LED lead on the left side can short on the left side frame as shown in this photo.

The LED needs to be removed, a small tubing place on this lead of the LED, then the LED re-installed.  The Kato 77A LED board already has tubing on it's LED so I took some from those to use here.

I have also found some of these Atlas boards that have the circuit traces both sides (top and bottom) of the board. These have to have both sides cut to fully isolate that part of the board from the frame.

This photo shows the component side which normally does not have any circuit traces.






For the wire lengths I followed the Aztec instructions except that I added the blue wire and cut it to the same length as the yellow wire.

   Black & Red = 1-3/4",  White = 1-7/8",  Orange = 1"
   Yellow & Blue = 7/8",   Orange = 1",   Gray = 1-5/8"

This photo shows a summary of all the steps I did to get the decoder ready to install.  The wires on the Lenz decoder are soldered right at the edge of the decoder and I felt they might get broken during handling so the first thing I did was to gather them together in a heat shrink band.

This decoder had no heat shrink covering and it components were exposed.  This was the method I used to insulate it from the frame and from the rear LED board.

A scrap of .020 thick plastic was cut to fit on the frame, then the decoder was secured with some Kapton tape.  The Kapton tape is trimmed to fit around the bumps on the sides of the frame that hold the shell in position.

Here is a photo of the completed mechanism from the right side.  The gray decoder wire gets around the motor to the bottom brush using the slot milled in the right frame side.

Zimo MX621 in a Kato SD40 or SD45

This old Kato mechanism is one of my favorites and I think I've done more of these types of installations than any other.  The same mechanism is used for both the SD40 and SD45 models. The more recent releases take a board type decoder but for the older releases you will need to get the frame milled.  The Aztec Mfg. part number for a frame milled to take a small decoder is TM3002.

The decoder I am going to use in this one is the Zimo MX621.  It is similar in size to the TCS M1 and comes in a little plastic box.

Little boxes like this are perfect for storing spare motor brushes, brush springs, brush caps, etc.

The Aztec milled frame comes with clear instructions for the basic installation.  It is mentioned in the instructions about using the blue wire for decoders with transponders. This is because for the transponder function to work, the blue wire has to be connected as a return for one of the function wires.

As this decoder does have a blue wire, I am going to follow the option of using the blue wire as the return path for the yellow function wire on rear light board.

This photo shows the completed decoder assembly.

I have replaced the stock yellow LEDs on both boards with bright white LEDs.  On the rear board, I also replaced the stock 270 ohm resistor with a 750 ohm resistor.  This is because with the blue wire, the signal going to the LED is going to make the LED brighter and I wanted to reduce it to be close to the same brightness as the front LED.

The motor assembly goes back together in a very similar way as it does with most installations. What is different about this installation is that the decoder is in the fuel tank and all of the wires go up around the motor to the top of the frame.

This photo shows how everything is laid out just prior to re-installing the motor assembly in the frame.

This photo shows what it should look like on the other side of the right side of the frame after the motor assembly is placed into it.

The wires should lay side by side and not be twisted over each other.  It is also very important that none of them have gotten caught or pinched between the motor and the frame.

The rest of the reassembly of this model is very straight forward.  These are normally very quiet running engines but I have noticed ones that have sat around for years get a little noisy.  This is almost always cured with a small drop of Labelle 102 or other plastic compatible gear lube on the spots shown in this photo.



In conclusion, this would be a great model to try as your first wired decoder DCC install.  Other currently available decoders that would fit in the pocket milled in the frame would include the Train Control Systems M1, M4, or Z2, or the Digitrax DZ125 or DZ143.

Sending frames for milling

While the options for installing DCC decoders in N scale engines without the need to do major modifications to the frame are much better than in the past, there are still some cases where space will need to be created in the frame for a decoder, wires, resistors, etc.  For me the best option has always been to send my frames to Aztec Manufacturing in Carson City, Nevada.

This is a professional machine shop specializing in model railroad products and they do a much better job than I could ever do.  They only charge $10.00 for most N scale frame milling, and for me it's always been money well spent.  They have a list of frame milling available and prices at  http://www.aztectrains.com/dccframes.html.

If you send several frames at one time you can reduce the cost of shipping per frame.  I like to use the Priority Mail small flat rate box for the best savings.

You'll need to first completely disassemble you engine so that just the frame gets sent in.  Be sure to account for all the small parts including nuts and shoulder washers as those sometimes get stuck to the frame.  I use small plastic zip lock bags that I purchased on ebay to store all the small parts.  I put the motor in a separate small bag so that no small parts can get into it.  I normally put the shell, trucks, and fuel tank in the original box.  If there is more than one engine being disassembled at the same time I will mark all of the bags so the parts don't get mixed up.




This photo shows how I bag up and label the engine parts until I get the milled frame back from Aztec.  If you have several of the same model that you are working with at the same time, label the bags by road number or just 1, 2, 3, etc.





To contact Aztec Manufacturing:

Aztec Manufacturing Co.
2701 Conestoga Drive, # 113
Carson City, NV 89706

775-883-3327