Recently I was asked to replace an existing installation of a Digitrax DN121 decoder with a new Lenz Silver Mini. The PC board had been removed from the locomotive. So this post will show a different method to install a decoder in this loco that was not available in a DCC version and that no after market decoder board has ever been offered for.
The original installation is seen in this photo. On this installation, the LED's were not in alignment to get any light into the lenses, particularly the ditch lights that are on this model.
For that reason I felt there would be an advantage to having the LED's and resistors mounted on a board of some type.
This is the Lenz decoder. Notice how it does not have any heat shrink over it. That means care must be taken in it's placement so it does not short on any part of the frame. Also, the wires are more easily broken off from this decoder than those with heat shrink.
My solution to the wire problem is to place a small length of 3/16 inch heat shrink over all the wires near the decoder as shown here. This acts as a strain relief and will protect the wires being broken off from the decoder during handling.
After removing the motor from the motor saddle and marking at least one of the sides of the motor to keep it's correct orientation, I removed the little tabs that would have held the board in place if there had been one.
I aligned the board so that the front LED is at an equal distance from the front of the frame as on a stock Athearn F59PHI. The black line across the board and saddle mark this alignment.
Notice in the photo above that the little bars on the motor saddle that go across the motor contact wipers on the stock mechanism are gone on the saddle we are using. This had been removed in the original DN121 installation. If the loco you are working with is a new installation, this should also be cut. Too see this step refer again back to the earlier post on this model.
This photo shows the modifications made to an Atlas GP40 board to make it fit into the frame of the Athearn F59PHI.
The polarity of the front LED is reversed so that the anodes of both LED's will be tied together.
The white, yellow, and blue wires are soldered to the board as shown in this photo and the other wires are trimmed to 2 inches in length. Keeping them long will make it easier to put things back together.
Route the wires down through the openings in the saddle. Remove the brush holders from the motor, solder the wires to the brush holders, then after they have cooled, re-install them in the motor. Then connect the red and black wires to the contact strip. Keep the solder joints small, if needed make the openings in the saddle a little bigger.
On this model the top of the shell is removable so in this photo the installation can be seen after the shell is re-installed on the mechanism.
Several areas to to watch out for are pointed out.
Done !
That's a very neat installation Brad.
ReplyDeleteI have one of my new FVM GP60 M's to do.It will have a Loksound decoder fitted when I can get one of my good friends to mill the frame. I believe I will also need to make room in the body as the decoder is just a tad too wide.
Great instructions also.
Regards
Rod.
Hi Rod, Thank you for your kind comments. Yes, I've read where both the frame and body of the GP60M's have to get milled to make room for the Loksound decoder. I've not done too much with sound yet but hope to get into it more in the future.
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